Barrel

Yesterday I had one of the best surfs of my whole entire life. It was amazing, the sea was rough (bumpy) but some of the waves coming through were glassy, on one of the waves I saw a little barrel peeling but then it closed out. So my aim for the surf was to get an amazing wave that maybe would have a little barrel. There were a few perfect waves for me but most of them were doublers because of the choppy sea, on one wave I jumped up perfectly, it was a close out but I thought I might have had enough speed to get in the point break barrel in front of me, but I was a little bit too slow, the white water broke right on the side of my board, the board whipped away from my feet and I tumbled into the white water. The white water threw me left right and centre, then finally I popped up!

Also the other day Will's brother Charles turned up, we were all in the sea and Charles dived under one of the waves, when he popped up Me and Will looked back, we saw him and he looked just like Jesus, or even better the Messiah. We all started laughing lots.

We are having the best of times, hope you are all feeling well... hip hip chow for now!